LAS drifters in the news

for those who didnt get the report on newspaper ,

here it is

guys,

you all think the article will help on getting RC approval?

DIY lights without resistors

guys , found this for you

enjoy and call me if wana do together .

Click Here

lock a ball diff - reversible

Hi Guys ,

found this on DRC

credited to JT of DRCcentral

Here's an easy ball diff > Locked diff method I've devised, without over tightening the diff screw.

Pop down your local bike shop and buy a couple of tyre repair patches, the thin, plain rubber sort.

Take the ball diff apart and lay the pressure rings on the patches and draw around the rings, then cut out the circular patches. Now lay the rings on the pressure hubs (the two plastic / cast metal hubs that the plates sit against) and mark the inner circle (the centre hole) and cut that out of the now circular patches.

This exploded view is a modified version of the T2 ball diff from the X-Ray manual. Ball diff designs vary but this modification can be applied to all types.

Now simply rebuild the ball diff exactly as you normally would but leave out the larger diff balls placing the patches between the plastic ball holder and the pressure plates. Build the rest of the diff, including the smaller balls that surround the long screw, as normal. The very thin rubber patches give you the correct overall diff length and stop the diff operating without damaging any parts. There's no need to overtighten.

The result is a fully locked (spool) that can easily be returned to a ball diff.

DIY Brake lights

again , wonderful info as usual from DRCCENTRAL

credited to tvouthilak of DRC central

PS: can some1 good with electronics help me with it????

enjoy

*DISCLAIMER- I will not be held responsible for any damages made to the ESC, receiver, motor or any part of your car or yourself due to the making and using of this device.*

Parts:

-Red LEDs and LED holders
-Relay- I used a 5VDC SPDT micro relay from RadioShack #275-240
-Power source- I’m using (3) 1.5v button cells.
-Switch (if not included with power source). My power source has it’s own on/off switch.
-Wire

Tools:

-Wire cutter
-Soldering iron and solder
-Electrical tape

. Please refer to the diagram. Your relay may be set up differently depending on what relay you are using, but this should help you see how the parts go together.

This will not be a step by step tutorial, because the diagram is pretty much all you need. I will however try to explain how the diagram works.

Before we get started I would like to mention that the pins on my relay are very small so soldering was a bit tough. If you can find pin connecters small enough to fit on the pins, then go right ahead and use connecters. However, I think soldering makes for more of a secure connection.

Time to get started.

Pins 1 and 3 make a closed loop when no power (Car in STOP position) is sensed by the coil (pins 4 and 5). So wire the LEDs and the power source in series from pin 1 to pin 3.
Remember to wire in a switch between your power source and the LEDs if your power source doesn’t have a switch.

If wired correctly, the LEDs should turn on when you switch your power source on.

Ok, congratulate yourself if you’ve made it this far. Guess what, you’re half way done!

Now test if the relay is working. First solder some wires to the coil (pins 4 and 5) then grab your 7.2v battery pack (yes, the one that powers your car). Make sure your LEDs are on and touch the wires from the coil to the battery. You should hear a click (this is the sound of the relay switching from the “Closed” position to the “Open” position) and your LEDs should go off (car in GO position).

If successful, alls you have to do now is connect the wires from the coil (pins 4 and 5) to the output wires of your ESC going to the motor.

Now give it a try. Power up your car, turn the brake lights on and give her some gas. The lights should go off when you pull the throttle and come back on when you release the throttle.